Organic Vs. Local

I would like to share some thoughts on organic and local foods. The term organic first being used in the context of farming is attributed to Lord Northbourn in his 1940 book "Look To The Land". It set forth the notion that the farm itself, the soil is a living entity, a living organism. I like the notion that not just the plants and animals in our eco-system are alive but everything is, the soil, the air, the water...it's all dependent on the other components. The British Victorian era social commentator John Ruskin equated the pollution of the planet that he witnessed at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution with the pollution of the spirit and morality of man. That to allow the destruction of the very planet we need to live on due to the pursuit of profit was a form of insanity in the minds of men. There is something to said for this observation. If the planet becomes uninhabitable, no amount of money will save you. Most thinking people would agree that there is potential for harm in consuming proteins, grains, seafood, fruits and vegetables that have been exposed to great amounts of chemicals and pesticides ( remember, pesticides do not just kill the harmful insects but all of them and more- read Rachel Carson's book "Silent Spring" for more insight). I admit that organic farming wont be the end all to remedying the world's problems..yet, the ideals that are promoted can greatly benefit the health of our planet and therefore ourselves. With this in mind, where does "local" fit in and how does it compare to organic? The generally approved range of "local" food is 100-150 miles from the foodsource to the consumer. The Italians have a wonderful philosophy for food called Campanilisimo, which means that if the food product, cheese, bread, lamb, pasta, etc. is produced outside of the sound of your local church bell tower then it's not local. If you go to buy a spring lamb and while on the farm your watch reads noon but you can't hear the bell from your neighborhood then it's not local! Beautiful! So, here's something to consider, the Pacific Northwest is world famous for it's quality of berries-raspberries, blackberries, loganberries, marionberries, strawberries..well, you get the picture. There are some restuaranteurs and chefs who think it's necessary to have at least some form of berry on the menu year round.If it's a decent place these are usually organic. Here is the issue..sure, it's organic, great..however, it came here on a big ol' diesel guzzling semi all the way from California. Any good that was derived from it being organic ( more Earth friendly) was negated by it's journey here. Another point, most local farmers, while embracing chemical free farming practices simply dont have the resources to become officially certified organic. When you buy local, the money stays in your community and makes your community stronger. As a chef or conscious consumer you can actually meet the people responsible for your food. Several farmers I know have certain days in the harvest when the public is welcome to come and see how things really operate. Heck, if you pitch in or buy something they might even feed you if it's lunch time. Plus, farmers are a great source for quick and easy ways to cook their goods. So, I would say that when the product is truly in season, go organic if you can, and at the same time you can never go wrong with local, which will always be seasonal. Eat well, drink well and share your table with your friends.

the current state of cooking 3

Hello, as I write this I anxiously await the dressing being done so I can go to my Thanksgiving party. I wanted to take a moment to recognize something dear to all of us, whether we realize it or not-food. In school, in addition to being trained to understand food and why and how it does the things it does I was also fortunate enough to have chefs that had a grander worldview. It was instilled in me to understand the bigger dynamic of food and to protect it. It is our duty as chefs to be active in the concerns of our community and our environment. Our profession is directly affected by the quality of the soil and the water of the farms that provide us with our product. This transcends any ideas about politics, it's simply a fact that it is in our best interests to be stewards of the planet, our livelihood is based on the quality of the things that come from it. There is a slowly growing movement that started about 35-40 years ago to produce a higher quality of food with a higher quality of raw ingredients. No more frozen vegetables, no processed foods, livestock and poultry that had a diet it was intended to have. There is a direct correlation between the health of what we eat and our own health. Of course, when a baker uses local and organic wheat in his bread, the l0af will cost a little more, the same goes for a hamburger that uses local, grass-fed beef. However, if there were a more informed public which understood the value of this way of looking at food, more people would buy these products and therefore they would become more available and more affordable. The purchasing public has a great power to affect change. Try a loaf of bread from an artisan bakery, go to farmer's markets, go to berry farms and fishmonger's. You will be supporting an important part of your community and in the process you'll get something worthwhile to feed yourself. It doesn't have to be everyday, I understand the costs associated with buying all local, all organic all the time. Maybe once a week as a treat, you'll be surprised at the difference in freshness and quality. I would like to give you a recipe for my dressing.
onion-.5#, celery-.5#, carrot-.5#, acorn squash( roasted and peeled)-1#, bread (dried and cubed)-1.5#, Veg stock-1.5 quarts, salt-2T, pepper-2t, sage-2t, oregano-2t, rosemary-2t, parsley-3T ( use fresh herbs if possible), eggs-2, egg yolks-2, half and half-2cups( whisked together)
Saute the first three ingredients and add to the bread crumbs( a LARGE bowl will be needed) add the stock slowly while mixing. Add the cooked squash, herbs, S&P. Add the liaison( you know, the 1/2 & 1/2 and eggs). Place in 3 loaf pans, cover and bake at 325-350*f for one and a half hours( approx., with anything, check it every so often, turn it half way through) When it feels like cake it's done. Happy Thanksgiving, eat well, drink well and share your table with your friends.

The Current State Of Cooking 2

So, while not all guests are innocent, some are much worse than others. Sure, there are the rude diners, those who haven't learned how to tip,etc. I had the opportunity to work at a nice boutique restaurant in the San Juan Islands where the wife oversaw the BOH and the husband looked after FOH. The husband was amazing in his ability to properly oversee a high-end dining room. He also had no qualms with asking guests to leave should they make the mistake of presuming that just because someone was serving them, that person was somehow subservient to them. We had our share of food snobs as well, irritating to say the least. HOWEVER, do not confuse some arrogant/ignorant food snob for a foodie. I personally adore foodies, these people are the reason you can have scallops three ways on a menu or an appetizer of fricassed frog legs with house made frog demi, real frog demi-from frog bones. These people are like the modern day equivalent of the House of Medici, instead of being generous patrons for starving artists, they support small cafes, bistros and honest chefs. These types of diners will help you to pay the electricity bill. There is a vile splinter group of the foodie sect that makes up the worst guest of all( some of them even work in kitchens-shudder)- those who would be pretenders to the throne, those who have convinced themselves they have legitimate skill, knowledge or ability. On one hand it's kind of flattering that these individuals want to be like us, the true professionals, the actual chefs. Trust me, just because you have been to Italy once and Cancun twice, this doesn't mean you can claim to have a solid foundation of world cuisine. Yes, yes, I know, you read Mastering The Art Of French Cooking, you took a few classes at Sur La Table, you have a French rolling pin and you had the money to buy a set of Le Creuset sauce pots which you casually mentioned to the waiter at the French Laundry the last time you were in Napa-this does not make you a chef, really. On the same note, you own a Silpat, a cake wheel, an offset spatula, Nancy Silverton is one of your Facebook "friends" and you took two workshops on the intricacies of laminated dough..I'm sorry, but this does not make you a pastry chef...no, really, it doesn't. Also, if you've only ever worked at one restaurant ( albeit for 10-15 years) this doesn't automatically make you a chef/pastry chef either, regardless of your title. There is something to be said for longevity of employment, but if that one kitchen is all you've ever seen, then that's all you know. Until next time, eat well, drink well and share your table with your friends.

the current state of cooking

First of all, let me say, I love cooking. I have a passion that considers and recognizes the multiple factors that contribute to a meal being served. It's the farmers and their migrant workers, the ranchers, the fisherman, the foragers, the purveyors and their reps, the delivery drivers, the restaurant owner and their backers, the hostess, the wait staff, the sous chef, the chef, the line cook and last but certainly not least, the dishwashers. All of these people...their personalities, their feelings, thoughts, concerns and responsibilities constitute a vast and far reaching collective that make it possible for you, the diner, you, the guest to have an enjoyable dining experience. Everyone comes together so that you can have a meal..seriously. I appreciate the dining public just as much as the others involved in this dance. I don't subscribe to the guest hating behavior. You all know it.." Oh, great, she just sat a six top..we close in 20 minutes!" or, " Why did he let table five order that entree split and marry?". I now understand that the guest can eat their food any way they want..Copper River salmon at $ 37.00 for a six ounce portion..well done? Sure...hey, I wouldn't do it, but then again I'm not the one ordering it. The food service industry is a service industry. We as professionals should remember this from time to time. I'm by no means saying everyone of the diners is innocent and I'll touch on that in my next post. Eat well, drink well and share your table with your friends.