Let's Talk About Soup

Hello my friends,
Where to begin..I suppose it would be helpful to first give a description of the four types of soup. Broth based-think chicken noodle, consomme and passatelli. Puree-usually not thickened with a roux...roast, boil or blanch the main flavor ingredient then puree, loosen to the desired consistency with an appropriate stock.( These soups have vibrant colors and always look good in a nice bowl.)Cream-similar to puree but more refined, roux is used as a thickening agent( sometimes in the form of veloute). This soup is finished with a scant amount of cream and usually is passed through a fine mesh strainer called a chinois. Finally there are Specialty soups-things such as clam chowder, bisque and chili. A couple of notes, when making cream soups, for example: cream of broccoli, one need not use a large amount of dairy. The "cream" doesn't refer to the dairy so much as it does to the mouthfeel. I worked with a cook a few years back that didn't understand this and would frantically search for any type of dairy to put in his cream soups. I was shocked to come in and find that he had put cream cheese into his cream of asparagus soup..no, really. Of course it had not melted and was floating in the soup in large chunks. I share this with you in the hopes that you will not repeat these mistakes. I also had the eye opening chance to work with someone who asked me to make potato soup and then instructed me to take some left-over cooked potatoes ( nothing wrong so far) and add milk and water! While this may have rendered something like soup ( U.N. relief mission food comes to mind)it could have been so much better...and in fact it was. I stammered "Uh...um..I..uh", then he said "Make it the way you want to". I sauteed some white mire poix( celery, onion, leek and garlic)built a roux( butter and flour), added veg stock, simmered for 20 minutes to cook the flour then added the potatoes, a pinch of salt and pepper and some heavy cream. I really am confused and disappointed when people look at soup as either an afterthought or as a dumping ground for all leftovers in the walk-in. Soup is a beautiful thing that can span the spectrum from humble, hearty minestrone to Michelin starred duck consomme. I was fortunate enough to attend a cooking school that recognized this. In every class, from American regional cuisine to classic French cuisine to Asian cuisine, we made soup. That's right, every culture has some form of soup..and have had for thousands of years. If only my two hapless co-workers had known this maybe they would have treated their soup duties with more respect. Soup is a wonderful thing to make for yourself or for guests and is perfect for the soon approaching winter months.It's great for those on a budget, you will have leftovers that lend themselves to freezing. In fact, I worked for a chef that would make soups three to four times a week in bulk and then freeze them in one gallon containers. Depending on the day of the week he would thaw either one or two pouches for service and always rested assured knowing that he had at least two or three days worth of two or three varieties. With this in mind I would like to share my recipe for split pea soup.
Carrot-2 cups, Onion-1 cup, Celery-1 cup ( note: this is mire poix, however the proper ratio is 50% onion, 25% carrot, 25% celery-just so you know)Garlic-4 cloves, Dried split peas-1.5#, Canola oil-.25 cup, Ham hock-1#, Water-14-16 cups. Saute the mire poix until golden, add the ham hock, garlic and the peas, stir and add water. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer, cook for 40-60 minutes stirring occasionally. The peas should be completely broken down before removing from heat. Add salt and pepper. Remember, you can always add more salt but it's difficult to take it away! So start with a tablespoon or two at a time, stir and taste.I will be talking more about soup in the next post and will include another recipe, until then, eat well, drink well and share your table with your friends. P.S-I find it hard to believe no one wants an awesome Flashpoint I Love Brunch sticker!